It was revived in the 17th century. Indian artisans continue to print fabric by hand with block printing in the 21st century, which is enjoyed by owners worldwide of those fabrics.
Block printers use wooden blocks and dye to print their fabrics. A block of teak can take up to three days to carve five carvers to create an intricate design for printing. Wooden blocks are used to begin the process. Carvers carve designs into blocks of various shapes and sizes. You can also find various points carved into the wood which the printers use as placement indicators when they pick up the block and place it on the next patch of material. For one and a half to two weeks, each is soaked in oil. The blocks are dipped in the color and then pressed onto the fabric.
Precision is demanded by the artisans to ensure there are no breaks in the motifs. If there are multiple colors, other blocks are used and the artisan waits for the first print to dry first.
The fabrics are left to dry in the sun, and then rolled in a newspaper to prevent them from sticking to each other. The post-printing process sees them being steamed, washed in water, dried in the sun again, and lastly, being ironed.
There are only three widely-used techniques of block printing in India—direct printing, resist printing and discharge printing. Direct printing sees the fabric bleached first, then dyed and finally printed using carved blocks (first the outline blocks, and then to blocks to fill in colour). Resist printing requires some areas of the fabric to be protected from the dye, which are shielded with the use of clay and resin. The dyed fabric is then washed, but the dye spreads through the protected areas, causing a rippled effect.
Next, further use of blocks add desired designs. The last technique of discharge printing, on the other hand, sees the use of chemicals to remove portions from dyed fabric which are then filled in with different colours.
The famous centers in Rajasthan are the cities of Jaipur, Bagru, Sanganer, Pali and Barmer, and the state is known for its colorful prints of gods, goddesses, humans, animals and birds.
Courtesy:
VogueIndia and Indianshelf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMPQGWDlN98
https://thekindcraft.com/indian-block-printing/
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Odisha is a state that is full of culture, tradition, history, heritage, dialects and handloom products. In fact, it’s one of the two Indian states that weaves beautiful ikat prints on silk and cotton sarees (the other state being Andhra Pradesh)
]]>They are also more experimental with patterns on Bangalore silk, Malda silk or Tasar sarees; whereas, Barpali weavers have stuck to half-a-dozen designs (mostly checks and crosses) that have been passed down the generations. And today, they’re known for those prints.
Single ikat (dyeing the weft) and double ikat (dyeing both weft and warp) is what differentiates a Nuapatna saree from a Barpali one. Some of their sarees though, especially those made in Nuapatna, even take three to seven years to be made and are priced anywhere between Rs. 3 lakh to 30 lakh.
A National Award-winning weaver family, headed by Sarat, in Nuaptana has several such sarees that were made 500 years ago. These sarees have been passed down generations and are a matter of great pride for them. At his weaving centre, one can witness an interesting transition in the process of designing that Sarat’s family, like many other weaver households, has been through. Earlier, the patterns and designs were hand-painted, complete with ikat-edge effect, and then copied on to the sarees. Today, they take print outs of designs from Google Images. In the near future, they hope to directly make original designs on their computers, a teaching initiative by Delhi-based NGO, Digital Empowerment Foundation. Nuapatna is also one of the few clusters of Odisha that still heavily relies on natural dye.
Unlike most other weaver cluster across India, Odisha weavers using tie-and-dye/bandhini technique for ikat don’t necessarily require a graph paper for designs either. Most of them, due to their several years of experience, just recall a design and start working on it through mental calculations, bringing their ideas from mind to machine (read handloom). Fortunately for Odisha, it is perhaps the only Indian state, where local handloom products are sold in the local market to the locals. This is probably why the Odisha handloom industry fairs much better than that in West Bengal or Andhra Pradesh, where sarees are manufactured for the export (national or international) market, not making it directly accessible to the weavers and opening a window for exploitative middlemen.
In this struggle for the right market, weavers too have started producing to meet the contemporary needs of the customer. For example, until some years ago, stoles were wider than they are today. Weavers say young girls want stoles that are not very long or wide, so that they can be easily wrapped around the neck to accessories western clothes. Well, short or long, here is a very traditional and timeless craft that can mold itself into any contemporary avatar - keeping the quaint handloom alive.
Courtesy: Udita Chaturvedi
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Despite the fact that 2021 began with all of us locked away in our homes, it is ending with a lot of glitzes and glam. As the COVID 19 situation started improving, people started moving out of their houses to attend special weddings and festivals while maintaining safety precautions. 2021 was all about going out in style and dazzle everyone. Here are some of the hottest saree trends that made a mark this year.
1. Organza Saree
Organza sarees are the epitome of elegance and have been a popular choice this year. They are delicate, light, and minimalistic, making them an ideal choice for those who wish to aim for a soft ethnic look and still look dazzling. These sarees come in a variety of pretty colours and have a charming flare, all of which add to the design's elegance. They also have breezy silhouettes, making them an excellent choice for a spring party, a day wedding, casual events, etc.
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2. Linen Saree
Linen sarees became a trend, and many people, including celebrities, chose them for their festival looks. These sarees are soft, comfortable, sophisticated which gives a lovely appearance. Their fabric is of premium quality and comes with sober designs which impresses all. Therefore, Linen sarees remained a popular outfit choice, especially during summers which people flaunted at festivals and celebrations. They were also preferred at formal events, shows, and occasions.
3. Pre-draped Saree
Pre-draped sarees are the year's fashion, and they've become a popular choice, particularly among millennials. These sarees are perfect for people who are not a big fan of managing pleats of saree or find it difficult to manage the pallus. These sarees come in so many sizzling designs and give a sleek and streamlined appearance. They come in a variety of styles, from intriguing drapes to appealing pleats. These sarees will make you stand out from the crowd, which is undoubtedly a stellar bonus!
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4. Ruffled Saree
Despite the fact that the ruffled Saree is not a new trend, it remains a relevant trend in 2021 which is going to stay. Ruffles were a 17th-century fashion, but they recently made a comeback in the form of ruffled sarees, and they've been ruling the saree fashion world ever since. They can be styled in numerous ways and give a gorgeous appearance. The border and pallu of these sarees contain ruffle detailing, which adds appeal to your retro appearance. Style it however you want, you'll look gorgeous in this.
These saree styles were the year's queen fashion trends, making an impression on every fashionista. Among these, which trending style was your favorite?
Credits: HerZindagi
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